2013年5月9日 星期四

What Can Cause Your Parrot To Be Nervous? - Hobbies

A nervous parrot is one that has suddenly developed a sudden fear of a person, object or action. This is a learned condition which means that something has happened to the bird to cause it to have a terrible fear reaction to some particular stimulus.

Parrots that have their wings clipped or cannot fly are more susceptible to suffer from nervous conditions since they become frustrated as they cannot escape or fly away from perceived dangers and therefore this will increase their fear. Parrots that have not been wing-clipped usually do not exhibit symptoms of nervousness as compared to clipped birds.

When a nervous parrot is caged or wing-clipped, it may develop severe panic attack as it cannot escape a fearful stimulus. Every little detail of any associated fearful event or object, even if the object may seem harmless, will be remembered by the bird. If this happens, the birds panic reaction will show up again if a similar fearful situation present itself.

Most parrots show nervousness by backing or leaning away from the pain or cause of the problem and the bird will hold its feathers down very tightly. The eyes will be wide and staring, and the bird may prepare to take flight. When this happens, you may need to pause any training session for a few minutes or to another day to let the parrot calm down.

In some cases, a carers response to a bird in a difficult situation may cause the parrot to be nervous. When a parrot crashes into a wall or falls to the floor dazed and confused, and if the carer immediately comes to help it, the parrot will associate the pain or suffering with this, perhaps you and your hands or the dark-color of your shirt, will be seen as part of the problem. So, when the nervous parrot sees these things again, its fear response system will be triggered and cause it to nervous again.

The only way to reduce or eliminate this fear is to get away from the nervous parrots view for a while until it has composed itself or by wearing some light colored clothing. If this happens to resolve the problem, then make sure the nervous parrot is never exposed to such dark colored objects.

There are times when the nervous parrot is being fearful of you and if this happens, you might want to work on a program where you can train or re-train your bird to accept your close approach each day.

I hope you find this information on nervous parrot useful.





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2013年5月8日 星期三

6 Important Things New Parrot Breeders Must Know - Hobbies

Today, I would like to share with you what are the 6 most important things that new parrot breeders should take note to see their first little ones born from their nest boxes and make their maiden flights.

Here are the 6 things...

1. Identify what type of parrots you want to breed

New parrot breeders should only breed parrots if they are truly interested in them for their beauty and intelligence. It should be noted that parrots can live a very long life and therefore developing a strong fulfilling relationship with this pet is a serious long-term consideration.

The first question parrot breeders should ask would be what sort of birds should I start with? This would be the well-established breeders, reasonably priced, and which will not pose problems of compatibility.

Some of these would be the Budgerigars, Elegants, Cockatiels, Bourke's Parakeets, Red-Rumps and Australian Grass Parakeets. It is relatively easier to breed Aviary-bred birds which are more reliable than wild caught specimens.

2. Watch if they are compatible

Second, parrot breeders should always keep close watch for a few weeks or even months to make sure that the pair is compatible. If it happens that the cock becomes overly aggressive, it will be desirable to remove the cock to another place and bring it back again a few days later. However, you may need to seek for an alternate mate if this fails after a few attempts before the breeding is due to take place.

3. Prepare nest boxes for them to mate

Third, after you have found them to be compatible, parrot breeders should start to build the nest boxes to prepare the pair to mate. It would be best to place these boxes in a shaded spot and at a convenient height where you can see them daily and easily.

To withstand changes in the weather, these boxes should be made from thick wood and also the size should reflect the size and length of the bird (excluding the tail) with a square base.

4. Feed them with nutritional diet

Fourth, parrot breeders must feed in them with lots of oil seeds, in addition to the cuttlefish bone or oyster shell, and extra supplements such as powdered and liquid high-vitamin concentrates and vitaminized tonic seeds that can provide additional vitamin content during the build-up weeks to egg laying, so that the eggs will provide the embryos with a good protein base to grow on. Bread, milk and calcium should be supplemented to ensure that the chicks do not suffer from rickets too.

5. Watch their growth during the initial weeks

Fifth, it is important for parrot breeders to watch the baby's weight during the initial weeks. You may need to remove them for fostering or hand-feeding if they are found not to be gaining weight, or worse losing weight. After about three weeks (to three months in some cases), they should be ready to leave their nest and feed on their own. At this point, parrot breeders must remove them to separate quarters, otherwise, they will be attacked and killed by their parents, especially by the cock.

6. Identify them by leg-banding

Lastly, parrot breeders would want to be able to identify the various birds, especially when the young rapidly attain adult plumage and are caged together with the older birds. This can be done by means of leg bands (also called 'rings') which are available in metal or plastic, closed or split. Normally, the plastic rings can be used on the smaller parrots but they are quite easily destroyed. A closed ring can be used on a chick at about five to six days of age. These rings can be further colored or numbered for better identification.

And remember to keep and breed birds in a responsible manner is an art. The bigger the cage or aviary, the better. And providing attention, toys and plenty of space are a few of the demands that parrot breeders must provide!

I hope you find these simple tips useful as new parrot breeders.





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2013年5月7日 星期二

What Are The Signs Of A Healthy Parrot? - Hobbies

Before you acquire or purchase a parrot, you may want to learn what the signs of a healthy parrot are so that you do not waste your money having to send your parrot to the vet so frequently.

A healthy parrot will exhibit the following signs:

alertness and showing interest in things going on around the eyes should be wide open and bright, not sunken in, dull or with the eyelids half-closed no discharge from the nostrils the underside of the bird should be clean, with no traces of droppings on the birds feathers when seen in good light, the feathers will have a slight boom and with almost semi-glossy effect feathers should not be frayed or damaged; slight abrasion is fine if they are captive birds kept in cages since they fly around the cage and get caught no serious loss or damage of feathers (torn, missing) especially on its chest, shoulders around the bend of the wings, which may indicate signs of self-plucking body feathers should not be fluffed up which may likely be unwell or inactive; feathers should be smoothed down instead healthy resting birds would stand on one leg and tuck the other one up under their belly; resting on both legs may indicate the parrot is not feeling well no missing claws (should ha ve four toes on each foot) no sign of deformities on the feet where the feet should grip the perch squarely and evenly; deformed feet indicate lack of vitamin and mineral during their initial weeks of life no missing feathers on its head (could be due to self-plucking) no missing crest should not be wing-clipped especially for a young or immature bird, which could hinder its development and ability to fly steady flying abilities and proper landing without any loss in balance; birds that lose their balance if they fly indicate they had been wing-clipped or not properly clipped and this may cause crash landing and hence serious injury should have about 9 to 10 of the main outer flight feathers on each wing when you extend the wing out

Make sure to ask the pet owner to repair any damaged wings due to wing-clipping. Also, observe any signs of nervousness or aggression showed by the parrot when you come close to it. You can also try to feed it with your hand through the cage bars and watch for any signs of aggression.

You may also read my other articles to find out more about nervous parrot, what can cause them to be nervous and how to tame a nervous parrot.





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2013年5月6日 星期一

Parrot as Pets - the role of captive breeding in conservation PART TWO of TWO - Family - Pets

Read the first article in this two part series /cgi-bin/showa.cgi?C=1661972 before this one!

5. Managing genetic and behavioural changes. When captive populations are established for conservation and recovery purposes, the preservation of extant genetic variation and species typical behaviour assumes paramount importance. Over the past decade, considerable attention has been given to the preservation of genetic diversity in small populations. Modern, conservation-oriented breeding programmes attempt to ameliorate the genetic effects of inbreeding, drift, and adaptation to the captive environment through the deliberate and careful control of reproduction, population size, and population demography (Foose and Ballou 1988, Lacy 1987, Allendorf 1993). This is a challenging task, however, given:

a) the practical limitations in controlling population size and reproduction,b) the dynamic nature of evolutionary forces in small populations,c) the types of genetic variation to be maintained, and,d) the uncertain nature of selection in the captive environment (see Lande 1988 Simberloff 1988). In low-fecundity taxa, like most parrots, careful preparation of stud books and pedigree breeding to equalise progeny number in family lines can minimize genetic drift and adaptation to captivity (Allendorf 1993). However, it must be recognised that breeding programmes for endangered parrots have often failed to secure consistent reproduction and have been unable to equalise progeny numbers in family lines or pursue any other consistent genetic strategies, even after years of effort. Further, some stocks in captivity have been genetically debased by ill-advised cross-breeding with other races and do not constitute acceptable stocks for release on genetic grounds (see Triggs and Dau gherty 1996).

Much less attention has been given to the preservation of species-typical behavioural traits. Behavioural traits, especially those that are learned or culturally transmitted, are prone to rapid loss in captivity. The behavioural repertoires of many parrot species include many learned components, and problems with behavioural deficiencies have already been encountered in attempts to re-introduce captivebred individuals of several species to the wild (see Wiley et al. 1992, Snyder et al. 1994). Because the cultural transmission of information across generations appears to be essential for the survival of wild populations of some highly social species such as parrots (Toft 1994), breeding programmes for re-introduction must focus careful attention on behavioural management in the captive environment. Clearly, this aspect of captive management deserves much more scientific investigation than it has received, and will have to be undertaken on a species-by-species basis.

6. Problems in ensuring continuity of programmes. Captive breeding represents a relatively unstable and inputintensive approach to conservation that is difficult to sustain over the several decades often needed for the recovery of endangered species. Changes in personnel, institutional priorities, and financial resources can frequently leave long-term programmes without adequate support and expertise. The Puerto Rican parrot captive programme, for example, has suffered several periods of substantial difficulty in maintaining optimal efficiency over the more than 25 years of its existence. Of course, problems with continuity are not unique to captive breeding programmes, and can affect complex in situ conservation efforts as well.

7. Pre-emption of other, better techniques. Captive breeding can sometimes pre-empt attention and resources from better, long-term conservation solutions. The existence of a captive population can give the impression that the species is safe and allow agencies to ignore long-term solutions that are often more difficult politically, though much more effective and beneficial biologically (see discussion and examples in Snyder et al. 1996). Because of the risks and limitations of captive breeding, it should be invoked as a species recovery approach only under carefully defined circumstances. The decision to start captive breeding for this purpose should be made only on a case-by-case basis and only following a comprehensive evaluation of conservation alternatives at the field level. It should not be made simply because some individuals are already in captivity and numbers of the species seem relatively low. Further, it should not be made when resources to conduct captive bree ding comprehensively and humanely are unavailable.

In general, captive breeding can be justified as a desirable recovery approach when: (1) species are so rapidly approaching extinction that they cannot be expected to survive without intensive intervention of some sort and either effective conservation alternatives are clearly unavailable in the short term or sufficient time to investigate alternatives does not exist; or (2) all or nearly all individuals of a species are already in captivity and it is deemed worthwhile to attempt re-establishment of wild populations; or (3) other conditions prevail that make captive breeding and re-introduction absolutely essential for preservation of the species in the wild.

When captive breeding should begin for species in decline is often a point of vigorous controversy. Clearly, waiting too long before starting will risk genetic deterioration and potential failure in developing adequate husbandry techniques, especially if technology for captive breeding of the species or closely related species has not previously been researched. However, starting too soon can represent unnecessary expense, can accentuate genetic and behavioural management problems, and can focus resources in non-crucial directions, pre-empting other approaches that can offer potentials for more stable, longterm benefits.

Population trends are often far more important than absolute numbers in making decisions as to whether and when captive breeding is warranted. Steeply declining species are cause for special concern, and care needs to be taken not to wait too long in establishing captive populations if effective alternatives are unavailable. In making such decisions it is crucial to recognise the difference between ephemeral short-term population fluctuations and pervasive long-term population trends. Well constituted recovery teams weighing the many factors that need to be considered are probably the best mechanism for determining whether and when captive breeding is needed for a particular species. The decision should not be delegated to parties, such as private captive breeders, who have a personal stake in the captive breeding.

Captive-breeding programmes for species recovery should not be established independent of efforts to develop alternative, long-term conservation solutions for wild populations. In general, wild populations should be sustained at the time captive populations are established so that research into limiting factors can take place and problems in the wild can be identified and corrected. Also, existing wild populations can present a valuable link for re-introduced individuals.

Finally, captive breeding efforts for species recovery should proceed only when endorsed by the governments of the countries involved. Although extranationals may beuseful in helping launch such programmes and in providing training, programmes should primarily involve participation by local conservationists. It is crucial that birds involved in captive breeding efforts be under the control of integrated conservation programmes so that disputes as to ownership of birds and as to the management and fate of birds do not disrupt progress toward conservation goals. Captive and wild populations of a species must be managed as one interactive entity under control of a single conservation authority.

Reproduced with permission of the International Union for Conservation of Nature and Natural Resources and the World Parrot Trust.





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2013年5月5日 星期日

Yellow Headed Amazon Parrots - Family - Pets

There are 3 types of parrots in the Amazon family. The most popular of the three types is the Yellow Headed Amazon. Yellow napes, blue fronts and double yellow heads are distinguished by their bright yellow colors and is also in the Amazon family. These birds have an uncanny ability to speak including inflections and undertones. Dancing to music is one of the things that can be taught to the Yellow Headed Amazons because of their love of music.

Fossils of parrots have dated back 23 million years in Australia and Melanesia. Christopher Columbus actually named the Yellow Heads during his travels to the New World and he brought them back to England. Currently, Yellow parrots are from Mexico, Honduras, Belize and Guatemala.

Yellow Amazons can live up to 80 years and will grow to approximately 15 inches. The females are slightly smaller than the males. Parrots require a healthy diet in order to live this long though. Without it, health problems can develop as soon as 15 years and could possibly die. Yellow Heads can climb easily as they have 4 toes, 2 pointing in opposite directions and also enables them to crack nuts and hold things.

Yellow head amazons learn most of their vocabulary by 2 years old and will begin to talk as early as 3 months. With this uncanny ability to speak so soon they can also form phrases and add connotations to their sentences. It is also not uncommon for them to yell expletives at others since they pick up words they hear from their surroundings. The more words they can speak by 2 years old, the better at socialization they will be.

Yellow heads are very energetic and can fly and climb for several hours while singing and talking. They also like to fly around the room and can make a mess as they like to clown around and will pick things up just to watch them drop to the floor. They will then need at least 10 hours of sleep at night because of the spent energy.

A square or rectangular cage that is a minimum of 21x21x27 to allow for the spread of their wings as they fly is required for these small birds. Add tree limb, playground area or something similar for climbing.





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2013年5月4日 星期六

Parrot Care Basics - Family - Pets

Parrots are a lifetime investment and the care of these magnificent birds is very essential to their health and happiness. Since some birds in the parrot family can live up to 50 years, an investment in parrots and how to care for them is often compared to caring for children. If this is something that does not interest you, then you may not want to own a bird.

There are an estimated 11 million pet birds in the United States alone with the majority owning a Parrot. The birds in the parrot family will include birds as small as parakeets and love birds to cockatoos and Macaws, the Macaw being the largest bird in the parrot family.

There are many different species of parrots. An African grey parrot grows to be about 13 inches, and he's one of the birds who has a longer life. He is also known for his capabilities to mimic all sorts of sounds, in addition to developing and parroting speech patterns.

The parakeet are among the best known of the parrot species. Another species is the Australian "budgie." This nickname is given to the budgerigar, a brilliant green and yellow variety of parrot. They are gentle and friendly.

An Amazon parrot has 27 subspecies. This parrot has short wings but is every bit as smart as a dolphin or a monkey. He is also an expert at imitating a wide range of sounds.

These are only some of the many species of parrots. Owning a parrot is an excellent alternative over other pets for those individuals who do not prefer the traditional dogs or cats, reptiles or others.

So what sort of cage should you buy for your new parrot? Regardless of whether you're expecting to adopt a smaller bird or a larger of the parrot species, my suggestion is to buy the largest, practical cage that your budget can afford. The bigger the cage, the more freedom he will experience and the more comfortable he will be.

In relation to your parrot's health, his appearance is telling. His plumage should look healthy, meaning the coloring should be bright and smooth. Additionally, he should be clean. That is, there should be no dirt hanging for his feet or his beak.

Before you purchase a parrot, you should get a clear understanding of the types of routine parrot care that is needed, medical care for parrots, understand parrot types and their personalities and which size parrot would best fit your wants and needs.

Become well educated in the ownership and care of these wonderful birds and you will be enjoying your new parrot in no time.





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2013年5月3日 星期五

Parrots That Aren't For The Beginner - Family - Pets

The color, size and temperament are what sets one parrot species apart from the others.

Some parrots will do no more than imitate whistles or maybe a few words, and others can develop a huge vocabulary.

Some parrot species are far more challenging to care for than others.

Among the most challenging parrot species are the cockatoos, macaws and amazons.

Cockatoos

Cockatoo birds may be extremely cuddly and affectionate, but they require almost constant attention.

A cockatoo that is left in it's cage without socialization will become a terror. It will puck it's feathers, become mean and scream all day. Unless you are willing to spend most of each day with one, don't get a cockatoo.

Cockatoos can be extremely loud. The last thing you need is to have one that screams all day long. You won't be able to stand it for long

If you are the type of person that is capable of spending the time that cockatoos demand a cockatoo may be the right parrot for you.

Amazons

Amazon birds are fairly independent parrots that are happy to entertain themselves for long stretches of time, but as they approach maturity they tend to get aggressive.

A first time parrot owner may find that they are too aggressive to to handle.

Without proper training and handling amazons can be almost as noisy as the other two birds.

Amazons are a good choice for a pet parrot if you are sure you can handle them when they get aggressive.

Macaws

There are exceptions, but for the most part macaw birds are big.

Even the mini macaws are capable of making a lot of noise.

If you leave a macaw alone in it's cage without any socialization they will turn into screaming, biting brats.

It's rare, but if a macaw decides to bite you hard it has the potential to break a finger.

Macaws can and should be taught not to bite, but if you should be on the cautious side around a macaw that you don't know.

I don't mean to imply that macaws are evil, viscous birds. In fact with the right handling they are gentle and fun parrots.

If you take the time to learn about them before going out to get one you will end up with a pet parrot that's a joy to have around.





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